Oslo, Day Four

Designed as floes of ice on the edge of the fjord, the Oslo Opera House dips down into the water. Covered in Carrera marble, in the summer it causes “snow blindness” for people venturing onto the roof. We did not make it inside, although we understand it is beautiful with perfect accoustics.

The chilly weather and significant breeze made us happy to be bundled up as we climbed the roof to have a view of the city.

Indeed, Oslo is a fast growing city (the fastest in Europe) with a lot of new construction. We looked for, but didn’t see, some of the modern buildings featured in the recent TV show Occupied.

The Oseberg ship at the Viking Ship Museum was built around 820, would have been rowed by 30 men, and was used for the entombment in 834 of two very high status women, one in her 70’s and the other in her 50’s. A burial chamber was lined with elaborate tapestries and many burial goods accompanied the ladies, including 15 horses.

Found in over 2000 pieces, buried in clay, most of the iron nails holding the boat together survived the centuries.

The ladies were also accompanied into the afterlife by other grave goods, including these three sleds.

The Gokstad ship is another incredibly well-preserved ship from about 850 and used for the burial of a warrior slain in battle in about 900. It had 34 rowers and the burial included yellow and black battle shield arrayed around the ship. Remnants of a red and white striped sail were also found.

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The Vigeland Sculpture Park was designed and executed by Gustav Vigeland (1869-1943). The principle grouping is centered around the “Monolith,” a sort of obelisk. Thirty-six groupings of granite figures of progressive ages surround the Monolith. The granite is impossibly smooth, in summer it is said to feel like warm skin.

A fountain is surrounded by bronze sculptures representing trees of life with various stages of human life and death intertwined in their branches. The final picture is one of the figures, also in bronze, that line a bridge capturing relationships in the family. The works were executed in the 1930’s. Some art critics believe they express a fascist aesthetic. Vigeland himself was a Nazi sympathizer and collaborator during the Quisling government. Ironically, he was also the designer of the Nobel Peace Prize Medal.

We rounded out our day with a visit to the Museum of Industrial Design (furniture) and a lovely concert by the Oslo Chamber Music Orchestra.